Decoding Ann Demeulemeester’s return to her namesake label

When Ann Demeulemeester quietly exited her namesake label in 2013 she kept the most essential asset: her title. Unlike designers Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, Roland Mouret (right up until he acquired it again), Calvin Klein, Halston and Thierry Mugler, Demeulemeester closed the marketplace door behind her but did not toss […]

When Ann Demeulemeester quietly exited her namesake label in 2013 she kept the most essential asset: her title. Unlike designers Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, Roland Mouret (right up until he acquired it again), Calvin Klein, Halston and Thierry Mugler, Demeulemeester closed the marketplace door behind her but did not toss away the critical.

It was fashion’s unrelentless pace that Demeulemeester sought to depart guiding, but the brand’s DNA lived forth when it was acquired for an undisclosed sum by Anne Chappelle, Belgium’s most strong businesswoman in fashion, who also owns the Haider Ackermann label. Chappelle final calendar year sold the Demeulemeester organization to Italian style entrepreneur Claudio Antonioli, founder of his namesake boutiques in Milan and Lugano, and an early companion of the New Guards Team. Antonioli experienced prolonged stocked the model and championed Demeulemeester’s style and design aesthetic considering the fact that the commencing.

Antonioli has vowed to return the brand to its glory times, albeit with a target on luxury, when its dark and moody tailoring was marketed by means of the world’s most prestigious boutiques. The company’s flagship retail store in Antwerp remains a spot for trend lovers, with its hardly ever-ending ceiling peak, botanical garden and minimalist collections. The premises ended up lately revamped by Demeulemeester’s husband, Patrick Robyn, and echo the brand’s codes with dim wooden flooring and crisp, white plastered walls.

Vogue and way of life

Among the style sits Demeulemeester’s new passion, her homeware and lighting ranges designed in collaboration with Serax, a Belgian B2B interior design and style company. Gorgeous ceramicwares and hand-blown glassware are shown on the floor flooring. They make a refreshing curation from the obligatory handbags and compact leather-based merchandise that are meant to push sales.

Graphic: Ann Demeulemeester Antwerp shop

To the shock of numerous, Demeulemeester very last 7 days verified her return, not as its resourceful director – she will not be designing collections at this point – but to oversee particular assignments, this kind of as making the house’s first perfume. The tranquil nod of acceptance by possessing the founder associated will enable elevate the brand to flourish, in a way Chapelle’s business couldn’t.

Because getting the model, Antonioli has been fast paced at the rear of the scenes, relocating the company’s design place of work to Italy, where manufacturing is anticipated to be extra streamlined and productive. According to Business enterprise of Trend, photographer Willy Vanderperre and stylist Oliver Rizzo, perfectly-acknowledged for their Raf Simons collaborations, will head up artistic route. New boutiques are slated to open up in New York, Tokyo and London and Milan, the first indication of Antonioli’s formidable expansions options, and lowering its reliance on wholesale, a technique a lot of luxurious brand names have embraced to retain quality and a lot more exclusive distribution.

Ann Demeulemeester will current its spring summer time 2022 assortment in Paris on Oct 3rd.

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